pg.2
4 hrs.later,somewhat refreshed, we are gathered
in the lobby to be driven to the venue. The streets are full.
I'm handed the video camera and I shoot out the window. Right
down the street there is a small shrine and I see a man in front
placing what appears to be a package with flowers on it inside.
There seems to be someone inside receiving it, though I can't
make out his face. There is tons of incense burning in front.
Inside there's a statue. I think it is Shiva. It's
definitely not Krishna for the statue is not blue.
Within 5 blocks I realize that the cities of India are
so incredibly polluted as to be nearly unbearable! Fumes choke
you; your eyes run and you wonder how anyone can live like this.
The venue is called the JN Tata Auditorium. It's
actually a hall of science. It's named for the largest
maker of vehicles in India, the Tata. If they could
just convince Mr. Tata to make his vehicles run a little cleaner
they should name the whole city after him! This is where we will
eat lunch and dinner during our stay in Bangalore.
We enter the main hall to check out the room and the
P.A. It looks like the room holds around 500 people. The P.A.(those
of you who don't know what a P.A. is, it stands for public address
system which is rather self-explanatory) is actually pretty good.
I'm not sure the same can be said for the sound man.He's a very
thin Indian fellow who looks like he's afraid to touch the board.
We try to talk to him and find out he doesn't speak much English.
Luckily Mark, the bass player, is a good sound technician and
will smooth out the rough spots.
Wait! I haven't introduced the main characters!.......
Mark Dann - studio owner and
bass player extrodinaire. Mark is the person responsible for me
being here and one of the best musicians it's been my pleasure
to play with. I met Mark on a Bobby Syvarth gig(actually I was
doing sound at a club in NJ called Kroghs). I briefly considered
not bringing my violin, partly because I knew I'd have my hands
full doing sound and partly because the business beast in me didn't
want to get roped into doing double duty for half the pay. You
see I've spent a long time getting people to respect the fact
that when I play I expect to get paid. Some people think it's
a hobby. Not to get long winded on this but I wouldn't ask my
plumber friend to come over and fix my toilet for free. Catch
my drift? Nuff said. The gig started out being a nightmare. Sound
was all fucked up and I struggled to get it right. In the end
I wound up bringing and playing my violin. It seems like that's
how my life goes. One seemingly inconsequential decision is made
that leads to something far greater. For had I listened to my
inner business beast and left my fiddle home I never would have
played with Mark and what transpired next would have never happened.
At the end of the show Mark is sitting on top of his amp in Lotus
position(how appropriate!)and said, "Are you busy between
April 12th and April 29th?" I said, "I don't know. What'd
you have in mind?". He said, "You want to go to India?".I
said something like "....that sounds interesting.",
dismissing it out of hand because I had prior commitments. I was
going into pre-production on an album I was producing by an artist
named Dave MacDonald and also had 4 gigs with Kings In Disguise
not to mention hosting David Olney at Kroghs and my open mikes
I host every Weds. at Kroghs. And who was going to take my place
on the radio show? I told him I'd think about and get back to
him. I wanted to go. I could see myself going. I couldn't afford
to go. Or was it I couldn't afford not to go?
Martha (my wife) said if I wanted to go we'd find
a way to make it happen. As usual she encourages me in every way.
The only way I could see doing it was going into debt, but so
be it. Ultimately what made me decide to go was the overall, "Hell
yeah you should go!" I got from my band mates and something
Allison Goeslling said to me. She said,"When you're 80 years
old and looking back on your life are you gonna say 'Man I'm glad
I started that record and did those gigs...'or are you gonna say,'Man
am I glad I went on that adventure in India'..?"
I couldn't argue it and so thanks to Mark Dann, I'm here!
Tad Weiss - Tad's a singer/songwriter from Woodstock, NY (a rare native!). He writes great songs and has a strong voice, plays good guitar and is a published author. He's a good egg who's very talkative and funny when he's in the mood and very quiet when he's tired. We were sworn to pummel him as soon as he broke out in his patented Indian accent in front of any real Indians.
Phil Void - Phil is the Dharma Bums! He writes all the songs, lives the life(so to speak) and seems to know everyone that you could know in the world of Tibetan Buddhism. He raised all the money for one of the temples in Dharmsala. He is a great contradiction. Buddhist by choice but there are aspects of him that seem anything but. I admire him for his relentless pursuit of promoting the Dharma Bums. He's quite a character; larger than life and not afraid to tell you all about it. He knows most of what you need to know about surviving India.
And now back to our story.....
We
see the venue and have a catered lunch. The food is wonderful
with names I've never heard. I could get used to this. I don't
eat much. I'm nervous about getting sick so I stick to vegetarian.
My logic is that the less I eat(meat especially) the less likely
it will be that I'll get sick. We also get buffet style Indian
breakfast at the Atria Hotel where we are staying which is also
top notch. I introduce myself to an older Indian women who is
the stage manager. She is very sweet and helpful.
We eat, meet the people we're supposed to meet and
head back to the hotel. We have a car and driver at our disposal
and a young Tibetan guide named Namgyal, which means "Skyking".
I sing the theme to the old tv show....."Out of the western
sky comes...SKYKING!!"He, of course, has no clue but
laughs anyway.
We are in the zombie-like grip of jetlag and must
go once again to the arms of Morpheus to battle the effects. The
must see act on this nights bill is the Bauls of Bengal. They're
a group of religious anarchists that sing devotional songs that
combine Sufism and Hinduism. India has changed since Gandhi but
it seems his message of acceptance is still being spoken.
We are gathered again at 6pm and it's off to the auditorium.
They will serve food for the artists after the show. I was already
hungry. Turns out we wouldn't wait that long.
First up was a veena orchestra. The veena is the little
sister of the sitar except it's played with the instrument on
the ground. It was wild seeing 18 women playing veena's with their
guru sitting on a raised platform in the center playing and directing
them.
Next a duet from France(harp, guitar and occasional
lute). They played nothing but love songs. They were good but
I failed to see the relevance at a sacred music festival.
Then we got word they were serving dinner early for
the artists. Our stomachs called and we answered.
We sat back down just in time for the beginning of
the Bauls from Bengal. They spread out a huge blanket and introduced
the first Baul. He meanders out looking like a gaunt Maharishi
Mahesh Yogi, all robes and flower garlands. The scene is made
complete by the big incense pots they lit. He says a few words
in Hindi and strums a single stringed instrument called a parsa.
He's got just a few teeth in his mouth and looks really stoned.
He starts to sing, gesturing with his left hand and strumming
the parsa with his right. Then he comes forward and goes lotus
on the blanket. Next they introduce the tabla player and he comes
out and starts tuning up his drum with a silver hammer. Then they
introduce the the last two Bauls; a blind man led by another younger,
more intense looking one. I think the intense one is a Sufi. He
definitely sings in the Quwalli/Sufi style. They get seated and
launch into the first song. It's amazing how much sound they make.
The young intense one plays a very unusual instrument called a
queeka(I think that's what it's called). It's a drum with the
top head cut off. A piece of bone is connected to two gut strings
that pass into the drum and connect to the bottom head. Played
with a huge pick; pulling on the bone changes the pitch. It has
a mesmerizing buzzing kind of sound. He starts singing with this
incredibly resonant voice. I was later told that the songs they
sing use the five elements; earth, fire, wind, water and space/time
as spiritual analogies. I found I really didn't need to understand
the language to get the picture. They were fascinating! After
2 long numbers the young guy turns it over to the older blind
guy and he proved to have the best voice.
We later heard a story about the opening ceremonies.
The Bauls apparently gate crashed the stage to sing for His Holiness,
the Dalai Lama. Security tried to stop them but HH said,"No,
let them play."And they did. It seems after they did a song
for him the blind one walked right up to HH and prostrated himself
in front of him. The Dalai Lama stood up and went to him,picked
him up and kissed his hands and cheeks. The blind Baul cried and
they hugged. It was all quite spontaneous and very moving, I was
told.
They finished up their show by setting up mikes at
the front of the stage. They go up from the lotus position they
were in and sang and danced ecstatically. It was one of the most
inspiring performances I'd ever seen!
Afterwards we met them and had chai and then it was
back to the hotel to sleep in a bed for a whole night for the
first time in 40 hours.